Koliva / golifa (wheat berries with pomegranate)

Koliva / golifa is a traditional wheat-based dish that is prepared in both Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot communities, for different occasions and traditions.

In the Greek Orthodox religion, koliva is prepared symbolically for memorial services, with each ingredient holding religious significance. In Turkish Cypriot culture, golifa is made during New Year celebrations to bring good health and fortune. In both traditions, the dish reflects an appreciation of life through its nourishing combination of grains, nuts, seeds and fruit.

In Turkish Cypriot golifa, pomegranate is often used while in season and symbolises abundance. Greek Cypriot koliva, which is traditionally made throughout the year, more commonly features dried fruit, though pomegranate is also used when in season.

The dish is a joy to eat. The main ingredient, wheat berries, adds a nutty flavour and a delightfully chewy texture, which contrasts perfectly with the crunch of chopped almonds and walnuts. Pomegranate seeds bring bursts of juice and freshness, while aniseed, sesame and nigella seeds add sweet, nutty and earthy notes to finish.

When Turkish Cypriots make golifa for New Year, they share it with friends and family, with slight variations in ingredients from household to household. We also serve it to guests in small bowls with a teaspoon, as a way of wishing them a blessed and abundant year ahead. Beyond its symbolic uses, it makes a great option for a healthy snack or breakfast, as well as a light and healthy afternoon dessert.

It is best to boil the wheat berries for longer than when they first become tender as they harden as they cool. This recipe indicates a longer time frame for boiling to help serve as a guide.

Buying ready-blanched almonds makes preparing koliva quicker but blanching them yourself adds more flavour. Traditionally, the almonds are split into two halves, but we chop them to make things easier. We prefer to use fresh pomegranate and pick the seeds out ourselves, but you can use ready prepared pomegranate seeds from supermarkets - just be sure it is a sweet variety. Also, you can leave out the aniseed if it's not to your liking.

Serves 6 to 8 | Preparation time: 15 minutes | Cooking time: 1 hour 30 minutes | Additional time: 1 hour for cooling

Ingredients

500g whole wheat berries, washed well and drained (with broken and discoloured ones discarded)	​200g sultanas
200g blanched almonds	8 tbsp sesame seeds
150g walnut halves	2 tbsp nigella seeds (also called black onion seeds)
​500g pomegranate seeds	2 tsp aniseed

Hob heat settings

Method

For the wheat berries:

1. Place the wheat berries in a large saucepan and pour over enough hot water to cover by 5–10 cm. Loosely cover and boil on a high heat for 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes, or until the wheat berries are tender yet chewy (cooking times vary depending on the variety). As the wheat berries will firm up as they cool, it’s best to cook them slightly longer than when they first become tender. Top up with more hot water if the level runs low during cooking.

   
   

2. Drain and rinse under cold water to cool and remove the dark cooking liquid. Leave to strain for at least 1 hour, until completely cool.

For the blanched almonds:

1. Place the almonds in a small saucepan and pour over enough hot water to cover by 5cm. Place on a medium-high heat and boil while loosely covered for 5 minutes.

   
   

2. Drain and rinse under cold water, then return the almonds to a bowl of cold water. While submerged, gently squeeze off the skins - the blanched almonds should slip out easily.

   
   

3. Spread the blanched almonds on a clean tea towel and leave to dry completely.

Final preparation:

1. If you're using fresh pomegranate fruit, split each one into 4 pieces, before gently picking out the seeds.

   
   
   
   

2. Chop the blanched almonds roughly into 2 to 3 pieces each.

   
   
   
   

3. Next, cut the walnut halves roughly into 4 to 6 pieces each. 

   
   
   
   

4. Mix the wheat berries with all the other ingredients and serve at room temperature or chilled from the fridge.